🚀 go-pugleaf

Yes, it is above 75 degrees at night.
I don't know what you mean by "Hand pollinating"

Ron C.
========================

On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:07:31 -0400, GA Pinhead
<georgiapinball@SPAMTHISyahoo.com> wrote:

>Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?
>
>John!
>
>
>
>
>Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com wrote:
>> I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>> 
>> 4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
>> plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
>> but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.
>> 
>> Wots up wit dat?
>> 
>> The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
>> California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!
>> 
>> Ron C.
>> =============================

Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?

John!




Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com wrote:
> I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
> 
> 4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
> plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
> but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.
> 
> Wots up wit dat?
> 
> The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
> California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!
> 
> Ron C.
> =============================

Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com wrote:
> 

> Yes, it is above 75 degrees at night.

Tomatoes don't like that... fertilization is poor above that.

> I don't know what you mean by "Hand pollinating"
> 

A small paintbrush, like model painting, works well, act like a bee!

John!

> Ron C.
> ========================
> 
> On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:07:31 -0400, GA Pinhead
> <georgiapinball@SPAMTHISyahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>>Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?
>>
>>John!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com wrote:
>>
>>>I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>>>
>>>4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
>>>plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
>>>but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.
>>>
>>>Wots up wit dat?
>>>
>>>The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
>>>California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!
>>>
>>>Ron C.
>>>=============================
> 
> 

In article <9dfh919734ni5ko369p63cnibk8u5k6s0q@4ax.com>,
 "Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com" <Dr.Pepper@iwvisp.com> wrote:

> Yes, it is above 75 degrees at night.
> I don't know what you mean by "Hand pollinating"
>
> Ron C.

When you see fresh blossoms, flick them gently with your finger...
I do it all the time now and it really does increase "sets".
--
K.

Sprout the MungBean to reply

"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell--you
see, I have friends in both places." --Mark Twain

"Katra" <KatraMungBean@Centurytel.net> wrote:
> When you see fresh blossoms, flick them gently with your finger...

I'll second that. All you need to do is just lightly tap the chutes with
your fingertip, or a light flick like your flicking whatever you flick.

--
Jim Carlock
Please post replies to newsgroup.

Might be blowing it too fast?

John!

Sue wrote:
> On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:07:31 -0400, GA Pinhead
> <georgiapinball@SPAMTHISyahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>>Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?
> 
> 
> We have lots of wind here.  Wouldn't that tkae care of the
> pollinating?
> Sue
> 
>>John!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com wrote:
>>
>>>I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>>>
>>>4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
>>>plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
>>>but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.
>>>
>>>Wots up wit dat?
>>>
>>>The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
>>>California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!
>>>
>>>Ron C.
>>>=============================
> 
> 

On Sat, 28 May 2005 09:34:50 -0700, "Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com"
<Dr.Pepper@iwvisp.com> wrote:

>I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>
>4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
>plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
>but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.
>
>Wots up wit dat?
>
>The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
>California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!

Thanks for asking this question.  I just subscribed to this group
because I'm having the same problem.  Had it last year, too.  I live
in the San Joaquin Valley with temps in 80's and 90's.  We do get cool
at night, unlike you.
Sue
  
>
>Ron C.
>=============================

On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:07:31 -0400, GA Pinhead
<georgiapinball@SPAMTHISyahoo.com> wrote:

>Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?

We have lots of wind here.  Wouldn't that tkae care of the
pollinating?
Sue
>
>John!
>
>
>
>
>Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com wrote:
>> I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>> 
>> 4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
>> plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
>> but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.
>> 
>> Wots up wit dat?
>> 
>> The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
>> California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!
>> 
>> Ron C.
>> =============================

In article <r27h91t89e0f5hofcp7734qlp6639vc3r4@4ax.com>, "Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com" <Dr.Pepper@iwvisp.com> wrote:
>I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>
>4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
>plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
>but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.

I had this happen last year. This volunteer tomato came up in the
front flower garden, grew into a HUGE plant and bloomed like crazy
all season long, but it never set a single fruit.

Conversely the two "free from the garden show" tomatoes in the back
garden both had plenty of fruit.

<scratching head>

I've only planted one tomato this year... I forget where I got it, but
it was such a good-looking plant (strong and symmetrical) that I
didn't care what variety it was. As it happens, the tag said "variety:
tomato" (*real* informative :)  It has just finished its first flush
of blossoms and since the flower stems seem to be thickening rather
than wilting, I assume it set fruit, but it's a little too early to
tell.

>The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
>California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!

Where exactly are you? We're sure not getting 75F at night here!

I'm a couple miles NW of Antelope Acres (15mi. NW of Lancaster), and
while we've got as high as 98F during the day, every night has cooled
down at least to 60F, and it got down to 36 only a week ago.

Weather history at Fox Field, Lancaster (I'm in this microclimate):
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesonet/getobext.php?wfo=sgx&sid=KWJF&numH
change last two digits to see more or fewer hours at once.

~REZ~

On Sat, 28 May 2005 09:34:50 -0700, "Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com"
<Dr.Pepper@iwvisp.com> wrote:

>I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>
>4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
>plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
>but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.
>
>Wots up wit dat?
>
>The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
>California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!


Google on Blossom Drop.


http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1997/7-18-1997/tomdis.html

Blossom Drop
Plants fail to set fruit. Cause: Extremes in temperature and dry
conditions may result in poor pollination and cause the flowers
to drop from the plant without setting fruit. Blossom drop on
tomatoes occurs when night temperatures are below 55°F or above
75°F. Control: Water the plants deeply once a week during dry
weather. Fruit set should increase when temperatures moderate.
Hormone sprays, such as "Blossom Set", may prevent some blossom
drop due to low temperatures. However, the resulting fruit are
often misshapen. Hormone sprays do not prevent blossom drop due
to high temperatures.

http://www.agway.com/lawn_and_garden/garden/tomatoes.shtml

Blossom Drop – Tomato plants often develop beautiful blossoms
that mysteriously fall off. This problem is often
temperature-related. Some varieties may drop their blossoms when
night temperatures fall below 55° while high day temperatures
above 90° and night temperatures above 75° may also cause blossom
drop. To prevent it, plant resistant varieties, keep the soil
evenly moist and avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers during the
early stages of plant growth. Also watch for signs of early
blight or bacterial spot that may cause blossom loss.


It sounds like your daytime temps may be too high. As the second
paragraph mentions, some varieties are more heat tolerant than
others. The problem with buying big box store tomatoes is that
they tend to stock "least common denominator" varieties, ie,
varieties that will do well under average conditions.

Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.

Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the <spit!>Thrips
began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.

Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
produce in the heat.


Penelope


--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
    "ElissaAnn" <elissa@everybodycansing.com>

I am trying Solar Set this year.  We will see.

John!

www.georgiapinball.org


Penelope Periwinkle wrote:
> On Sat, 28 May 2005 09:34:50 -0700, "Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com"
> <Dr.Pepper@iwvisp.com> wrote:
>
>
>>I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>
> Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
> produce in the heat.
>
>
> Penelope
>
>

On Sun, 29 May 2005 13:07:59 -0400, GA Pinhead
<georgiapinball@SPAMTHISyahoo.com> wrote:

>Might be blowing it too fast?

I don't think so.  They're fairly well protected.  Maybe too
protected.  I just went out and tapped the blossoms a bit as someone
suggested.  I may try the paintbrush thing.
Sue

>
>John!
>
>Sue wrote:
>> On Sat, 28 May 2005 13:07:31 -0400, GA Pinhead
>> <georgiapinball@SPAMTHISyahoo.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>>Has it been above 75 at night? Have you tried hand pollinating?
>> 
>> 
>> We have lots of wind here.  Wouldn't that tkae care of the
>> pollinating?
>> Sue
>> 
>>>John!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com wrote:
>>>
>>>>I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>>>>
>>>>4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
>>>>plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
>>>>but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.
>>>>
>>>>Wots up wit dat?
>>>>
>>>>The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
>>>>California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!
>>>>
>>>>Ron C.
>>>>=============================
>> 
>> 

Penelope Periwinkle <pperiwinkle@mindspring.com> wrote:

>On Sat, 28 May 2005 09:34:50 -0700, "Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com"
><Dr.Pepper@iwvisp.com> wrote:
>
>>I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>>
>>4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
>>plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
>>but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.
>>
>>Wots up wit dat?
>>
>>The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
>>California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!
>
>
>Google on Blossom Drop.
>
>
>http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1997/7-18-1997/tomdis.html
>
>Blossom Drop
>Plants fail to set fruit. Cause: Extremes in temperature and dry
>conditions may result in poor pollination and cause the flowers
>to drop from the plant without setting fruit. Blossom drop on
>tomatoes occurs when night temperatures are below 55°F or above
>75°F. Control: Water the plants deeply once a week during dry
>weather. Fruit set should increase when temperatures moderate.
>Hormone sprays, such as "Blossom Set", may prevent some blossom
>drop due to low temperatures. However, the resulting fruit are
>often misshapen. Hormone sprays do not prevent blossom drop due
>to high temperatures.
>
>http://www.agway.com/lawn_and_garden/garden/tomatoes.shtml
>
>Blossom Drop – Tomato plants often develop beautiful blossoms
>that mysteriously fall off. This problem is often
>temperature-related. Some varieties may drop their blossoms when
>night temperatures fall below 55° while high day temperatures
>above 90° and night temperatures above 75° may also cause blossom
>drop. To prevent it, plant resistant varieties, keep the soil
>evenly moist and avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers during the
>early stages of plant growth. Also watch for signs of early
>blight or bacterial spot that may cause blossom loss.
>
>
>It sounds like your daytime temps may be too high. As the second
>paragraph mentions, some varieties are more heat tolerant than
>others. The problem with buying big box store tomatoes is that
>they tend to stock "least common denominator" varieties, ie,
>varieties that will do well under average conditions.
>
>Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
>and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
>plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
>tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.
>
>Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the <spit!>Thrips
>began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
>their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
>for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
>all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
>destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
>this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.
>
>Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
>produce in the heat.
>
>
>Penelope


Here is the URL for Burpee's Heatwave II.
http://www.burpee.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemIDU3&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=heatwave

It is supposed to withstand heat up to 100° F.


--
Susan N.

"Moral indignation is in most cases two percent moral, 48 percent indignation, and 50 percent envy."
Vittorio De Sica, Italian movie director (1901-1974)

On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:56:05 -0400, GA Pinhead
<georgiapinball@SPAMTHISyahoo.com> wrote:

>I am trying Solar Set this year.  We will see.

Yeah, there are a lot of new tomatoes that are supposed to be more
heat resilient. An old variety that does well in heat is Arkansas
Traveler.

Penelope

On Mon, 30 May 2005 18:52:02 -0400, The Cook
<susan_r23666@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Penelope Periwinkle <pperiwinkle@mindspring.com> wrote:

>>Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
>>produce in the heat.


>Here is the URL for Burpee's Heatwave II.
>http://www.burpee.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemIDU3&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=heatwave
>
>It is supposed to withstand heat up to 100° F.

Heat Wave, Sun Master, Sure Fire, Solar Fire, Solar Set, Sun
Leaper, Ozark Pink, Homestead, Tropic VFN, and the list goes on.

You just have to play with the different varieties and see which
one does best in your area.


Penelope


--
"Maybe you'd like to ask the Wizard for a heart."
    "ElissaAnn" <elissa@everybodycansing.com>

On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
<pperiwinkle@mindspring.com> wrote:

>On Sat, 28 May 2005 09:34:50 -0700, "Dr Pepper@iwvisp.com"
><Dr.Pepper@iwvisp.com> wrote:
>
>>I'm having problems with my tomatoes, , , ,
>>
>>4-5 weeks ago, I planted wally world tomatoes in 1/2 wine barrels. The
>>plants are very large now, but NO FRUIT! they had lots of blossoms,
>>but since they are going away, I still have no tomatoes.
>>
>>Wots up wit dat?
>>
>>The temps have been in the 90's and low 100's, not too hot for the
>>California High Desert. The plants look great, but no tomatoes!
>
>
>Google on Blossom Drop.
>
>
>http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1997/7-18-1997/tomdis.html
>
>Blossom Drop
>Plants fail to set fruit. Cause: Extremes in temperature and dry
>conditions may result in poor pollination and cause the flowers
>to drop from the plant without setting fruit. Blossom drop on
>tomatoes occurs when night temperatures are below 55°F or above
>75°F. Control: Water the plants deeply once a week during dry
>weather. Fruit set should increase when temperatures moderate.
>Hormone sprays, such as "Blossom Set", may prevent some blossom
>drop due to low temperatures. However, the resulting fruit are
>often misshapen. Hormone sprays do not prevent blossom drop due
>to high temperatures.
>
>http://www.agway.com/lawn_and_garden/garden/tomatoes.shtml
>
>Blossom Drop – Tomato plants often develop beautiful blossoms
>that mysteriously fall off. This problem is often
>temperature-related. Some varieties may drop their blossoms when
>night temperatures fall below 55° while high day temperatures
>above 90° and night temperatures above 75° may also cause blossom
>drop. To prevent it, plant resistant varieties, keep the soil
>evenly moist and avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers during the
>early stages of plant growth. Also watch for signs of early
>blight or bacterial spot that may cause blossom loss.
>
>
>It sounds like your daytime temps may be too high. As the second
>paragraph mentions, some varieties are more heat tolerant than
>others. The problem with buying big box store tomatoes is that
>they tend to stock "least common denominator" varieties, ie,
>varieties that will do well under average conditions.

Thanks for the info.  I'm sure it must be the heat.  It was 98 degrees
today.  :o(  The only places we have near here to buy tomato plants
are Wal*Mart and K-Mart.  I wasn't checking for any heat tolerant
varieties.  Lots of farms around here grow commercial tomatoes so I
assume they select their varieties carefully.
Just in case, I was out yesterday with a small paint brush following
someone's advice.  Several of the blossoms fell off with just a gentle
touch.

>
>Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
>and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
>plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
>tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.
>
>Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the <spit!>Thrips
>began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
>their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
>for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
>all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
>destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
>this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.
>
>Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
>produce in the heat.

Next year.  My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type).  They seem
to do OK in the heat.  I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
last couple of years to can.
Sue
>
>
>Penelope

Sue wrote:
> On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
> <pperiwinkle@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>>Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
>>and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
>>plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
>>tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.
>>
>>Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the <spit!>Thrips
>>began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
>>their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
>>for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
>>all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
>>destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
>>this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.
>>
>>Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
>>produce in the heat.
>
>
> Next year.  My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type).  They seem
> to do OK in the heat.  I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
> last couple of years to can.
> Sue
>
>>
>>Penelope
>
>

hello,

i had one similar problem recently . the tomato plants were very big and
the tomato production quite low. one tomato in about 12 plants.
what i did was to prune the plants enough to increase the sun,air,
insect penetration in the plants and push them from leaf and stem
production to fruit production.

all these happened two weeks ago. now each plant has 5 or more fruits
without any other interference from me. since i live in Crete Greece our
days are quite hot and the plants dont seem to mind. when we have only
25 degrees of celsius it is a cool day.

i hope this helps a bit
--



 --------------------------------------------------------------
                   Nick Apostolakis
  e-mail: nickapos@agriroot.aua.gr nickapos@noc.uoa.gr
       Web Site: http://nickapos.oncrete.gr
 --------------------------------------------------------------

On Sat, 02 Jul 2005 22:27:24 GMT, Nick Apostolakis
<nickapos@agriroot.aua.gr> wrote:

>Sue wrote:
>> On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
>> <pperiwinkle@mindspring.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
>>>and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
>>>plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
>>>tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.
>>>
>>>Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the <spit!>Thrips
>>>began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
>>>their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
>>>for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
>>>all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
>>>destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
>>>this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.
>>>
>>>Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
>>>produce in the heat.
>>
>>
>> Next year.  My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type).  They seem
>> to do OK in the heat.  I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
>> last couple of years to can.
>> Sue
>>
>>>
>>>Penelope
>>
>>
>
>hello,
>
>i had one similar problem recently . the tomato plants were very big and
>the tomato production quite low. one tomato in about 12 plants.
>what i did was to prune the plants enough to increase the sun,air,
>insect penetration in the plants and push them from leaf and stem
>production to fruit production.
>
>all these happened two weeks ago. now each plant has 5 or more fruits
>without any other interference from me. since i live in Crete Greece our
>days are quite hot and the plants dont seem to mind. when we have only
>25 degrees of celsius it is a cool day.
>
>i hope this helps a bit

Thanks.  The plants that are really big have hardly any tomatoes.  Too
much energy going into plant growth.  One plant looks stunted and is
loaded with them.   It will take me a lot of courage, but I may try
your method.  Not much to lose if it doesn't work.  :o(
Sue

You might also try slapping them.  Don't hit them hard enough to break the
plants, but enough to get their attention.  That tip was in a "Growing
Tomatoes" hand book.  We have tried it and it worked.

It will also depend on whether the seeds used to product your plants were
determinate or indeterminate.  Indeterminate will bloom and put on tomatoes
all year, the rest put them on once and then quit.

Dwayne



"Nick Apostolakis" <nickapos@agriroot.aua.gr> wrote in message
news:gxExe.15225$ZR1.10586@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
> Sue wrote:
>> On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
>> <pperiwinkle@mindspring.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
>>>and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
>>>plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
>>>tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.
>>>
>>>Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the <spit!>Thrips
>>>began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
>>>their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
>>>for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
>>>all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
>>>destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
>>>this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.
>>>
>>>Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
>>>produce in the heat.
>>
>>
>> Next year.  My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type).  They seem
>> to do OK in the heat.  I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
>> last couple of years to can.
>> Sue
>>
>>>
>>>Penelope
>>
>>
>
> hello,
>
> i had one similar problem recently . the tomato plants were very big and
> the tomato production quite low. one tomato in about 12 plants.
> what i did was to prune the plants enough to increase the sun,air,
> insect penetration in the plants and push them from leaf and stem
> production to fruit production.
>
> all these happened two weeks ago. now each plant has 5 or more fruits
> without any other interference from me. since i live in Crete Greece our
> days are quite hot and the plants dont seem to mind. when we have only
> 25 degrees of celsius it is a cool day.
>
> i hope this helps a bit
> --
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
>                   Nick Apostolakis
>  e-mail: nickapos@agriroot.aua.gr nickapos@noc.uoa.gr
>       Web Site: http://nickapos.oncrete.gr
> --------------------------------------------------------------

In article <618e4$42c7c22e$cee6178a$7485@st-tel.net>, "Dwayne" <jenco@st-tel.net> wrote:
>You might also try slapping them.  Don't hit them hard enough to break the
>plants, but enough to get their attention.  That tip was in a "Growing
>Tomatoes" hand book.  We have tried it and it worked.

<laughing> Yet another form of malicious neglect, which some plants
seem to enjoy. Bring on the sadist gardeners!! :)

~REZ~
(whose lone tomato grew into a monster bush, and only started setting
fruit AFTER our temps got into the 100F range)

On Mon, 04 Jul 2005 21:30:26 GMT, askmeinrgcd@earthlink.net (Rez)
wrote:

>In article <618e4$42c7c22e$cee6178a$7485@st-tel.net>, "Dwayne" <jenco@st-tel.net> wrote:
>>You might also try slapping them.  Don't hit them hard enough to break the
>>plants, but enough to get their attention.  That tip was in a "Growing
>>Tomatoes" hand book.  We have tried it and it worked.
>
><laughing> Yet another form of malicious neglect, which some plants
>seem to enjoy. Bring on the sadist gardeners!! :)
>
>~REZ~
>(whose lone tomato grew into a monster bush, and only started setting
>fruit AFTER our temps got into the 100F range)

Then mine ought to be setting like crazy on the 103 day.  Phew!!!
Sue

Otherwise known as catfacing, uneven water, too little then too much.

John!

Sue wrote:

> I'll look into that.
> I probably ought to start a new thread on this next question and I'm
> sure it's been gone over time and again in this NG, but I'm new here
> so haven't seen it.  Why do my tomatoes *always* split on top?  Heat?
> Too much or too little water?
> Sue
>

Sue <sebrady@thegrid.net> writes:
>The plants that are really big have hardly any tomatoes.  Too
>much energy going into plant growth.

You were too generous with the nitrogen fertiliser?

I believe you can use Sulphate of Potash to encourage flowering in many crops,
so why not try it for tomatoes. I think you disolve it in water and water it
in, but follow the directions on the pack.
--
John Savage                   (my news address is not valid for email)

On Tue, 05 Jul 2005 22:14:19 GMT, John Savage
<rookswood@suburbian.com.au> wrote:

>Sue <sebrady@thegrid.net> writes:
>>The plants that are really big have hardly any tomatoes.  Too
>>much energy going into plant growth.
>
>You were too generous with the nitrogen fertiliser?

I, um, didn't use any fertilizer.  :o(    Every year I rototill (OK, I
don't, but my gentleman friend does - the damn thing would fling me to
the ground) several bags of commercial top soil into the bed.  When I
first started this gardening stuff (4 years ago) I put in some sand
and gypsum (really heavy clay soil).

>
>I believe you can use Sulphate of Potash to encourage flowering in many crops,
>so why not try it for tomatoes. I think you disolve it in water and water it
>in, but follow the directions on the pack.

I'll look into that.
I probably ought to start a new thread on this next question and I'm
sure it's been gone over time and again in this NG, but I'm new here
so haven't seen it.  Why do my tomatoes *always* split on top?  Heat?
Too much or too little water?
Sue

On Tue, 05 Jul 2005 21:13:42 -0400, GA Pinhead
<georgiapinball@SPAMTHISyahoo.com> wrote:

>Otherwise known as catfacing, uneven water, too little then too much.

Thanks.
Sue
>
>John!
>
>Sue wrote:
>
>> I'll look into that.
>> I probably ought to start a new thread on this next question and I'm
>> sure it's been gone over time and again in this NG, but I'm new here
>> so haven't seen it.  Why do my tomatoes *always* split on top?  Heat?
>> Too much or too little water?
>> Sue
>>

Tomatoes...It been very hot in texas this year.  I had a great crop of
tomatoes this year.  This is something you might try, when the vine is
starting to brown take your hole and make a trench long enough to lay the
tomatoe vine down into it and cover it up with top soil, but leaving about 6
to 8 inches  of the top sticking up and stake it.  A new crop will start up
again.....I had great luck with this. Something else that i came up with
that works great.. I when down to wal-mart and brought one of those paper
shreeder.  You know all that junk mail you get and newspapers, i shreed it
up and when i have enough i put it into a large bucket and add a  very
little  fertilizer to it and let it set for about a week.  Then i sprayed it
into my garden and it works great...... Nick Apotolakis"
<nickapos@agriroot.aua.gr> wrote in message
news:gxExe.15225$ZR1.10586@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
> Sue wrote:
> > On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
> > <pperiwinkle@mindspring.com> wrote:
> >
> >>Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
> >>and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
> >>plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
> >>tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.
> >>
> >>Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the <spit!>Thrips
> >>began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
> >>their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
> >>for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
> >>all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
> >>destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
> >>this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.
> >>
> >>Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
> >>produce in the heat.
> >
> >
> > Next year.  My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type).  They seem
> > to do OK in the heat.  I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
> > last couple of years to can.
> > Sue
> >
> >>
> >>Penelope
> >
> >
>
> hello,
>
> i had one similar problem recently . the tomato plants were very big and
> the tomato production quite low. one tomato in about 12 plants.
> what i did was to prune the plants enough to increase the sun,air,
> insect penetration in the plants and push them from leaf and stem
> production to fruit production.
>
> all these happened two weeks ago. now each plant has 5 or more fruits
> without any other interference from me. since i live in Crete Greece our
> days are quite hot and the plants dont seem to mind. when we have only
> 25 degrees of celsius it is a cool day.
>
> i hope this helps a bit
> --
>
>
>
>  --------------------------------------------------------------
>                    Nick Apostolakis
>   e-mail: nickapos@agriroot.aua.gr nickapos@noc.uoa.gr
>        Web Site: http://nickapos.oncrete.gr
>  --------------------------------------------------------------

Tomatoes...It been very hot in texas this year.  I had a great crop of
tomatoes this year.  This is something you might try, when the vine is
starting to brown take your hole and make a trench long enough to lay the
tomatoe vine down into it and cover it up with top soil, but leaving about 6
to 8 inches  of the top sticking up and stake it.  A new crop will start up
again.....I had great luck with this. Something else that i came up with
that works great.. I when down to wal-mart and brought one of those paper
shreeder.  You know all that junk mail you get and newspapers, i shreed it
up and when i have enough i put it into a large bucket and add a  very
little  fertilizer to it and let it set for about a week.  Then i sprayed it
into my garden and it works great...... Nick Apotolakis"
<nickapos@agriroot.aua.gr> wrote in message
news:gxExe.15225$ZR1.10586@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
> Sue wrote:
> > On Sun, 29 May 2005 22:16:20 -0400, Penelope Periwinkle
> > <pperiwinkle@mindspring.com> wrote:
> >
> >>Around here, in South Carolina, it gets very, very hot in July
> >>and August, and most tomatoes stop producing. If I can keep the
> >>plants going until September, I usually see a second flush of
> >>tomatoes, With a late frost, I can get a decent second crop.
> >>
> >>Or, I *used* to see that. Since the War of the <spit!>Thrips
> >>began, I'm lucky to see tomatoes at all. I have, however, removed
> >>their reservoir, the place they gathered strength while waiting
> >>for me to set out my purty lettle tomato plants. I have removed
> >>all three of the mulberryless mulberry trees, and am diligently
> >>destroying all signs of sproutlets from the roots. Maybe, maybe
> >>this year, I'll have fall tomatoes.
> >>
> >>Anyway, I would suggest looking into varieties that were bred to
> >>produce in the heat.
> >
> >
> > Next year.  My favorites are the Sweet 100s (cherry type).  They seem
> > to do OK in the heat.  I haven't had enough regular sized ones in the
> > last couple of years to can.
> > Sue
> >
> >>
> >>Penelope
> >
> >
>
> hello,
>
> i had one similar problem recently . the tomato plants were very big and
> the tomato production quite low. one tomato in about 12 plants.
> what i did was to prune the plants enough to increase the sun,air,
> insect penetration in the plants and push them from leaf and stem
> production to fruit production.
>
> all these happened two weeks ago. now each plant has 5 or more fruits
> without any other interference from me. since i live in Crete Greece our
> days are quite hot and the plants dont seem to mind. when we have only
> 25 degrees of celsius it is a cool day.
>
> i hope this helps a bit
> --
>
>
>
>  --------------------------------------------------------------
>                    Nick Apostolakis
>   e-mail: nickapos@agriroot.aua.gr nickapos@noc.uoa.gr
>        Web Site: http://nickapos.oncrete.gr
>  --------------------------------------------------------------