🚀 go-pugleaf

PeetZ wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> last year i bought a 1971 FLH. A great bike with nice modern features
> like a primairy belt, dual-plug heads and an electronic ignition. All
> is well except for the rear brake. It keeps locking itself up, braking
> real hard. I've replaced the brakelinings,all the brakelines are
> replaced with stainless braided lines and i replaced the rear
> brakecylinder and the master brakecylinder, all OEM. I had to, because
> all these parts where worn due to normal use and that caused the
> brakes to lock up as well. So, everything is new but my brakes are
> still locking by themselfs.
> Am i using to much brakefluid? I'm using DOT 3. The master
> brakecylinder is pretty close to the non-stock exhaust. Could heat
> from the exhaustpipe heat up the brakefluid so much that it would
> expand so much that it could start locking up the rear brake? The
> lower part of the brakepedal, where the plunger for the mastercylinder
> is located, is just 1/4" away from the exhaustpipe.
>
> Maybe there's a Shoveltech with a tech-tip that's not in the books?
>
> For reference:
> http://www.bigvtwins-zwolle.com/zo_geel_als_boter.jpg
> Great color huh?  :-)
>
> Thanks!
> Peter
> Zwolle, The Netherlands

When it locks up, crack the line to the cylinder (caliper?) and see if that
frees it up. If so, it is a hydraulic problem, if not it is something
binding in the mechanical portion.

Sure is thirsty in here.

(-:

>PeetZ wrote:
>last year i bought a 1971 FLH. A great bike with nice modern features
>like a primairy belt, dual-plug heads and an electronic ignition. All
>is well except for the rear brake. It keeps locking itself up, braking
>real hard.
<snip>
>Maybe there's a Shoveltech with a tech-tip that's not in the books?

How tightly do you have the plunger pin (attached to the foot pedal)
adjusted into the master cylinder?  The pedal should have 1.5" (38mm)
of travel *before* the pin makes any contact.  That's in the book
though.
--
Roger
'58-'04 Whatzit
'03 FLHTI
TOMKAT  BS#150  SENS  NEWT#1
www.utm.edu/~relmore/Whatzit/MAMBM

> When it locks up, crack the line to the cylinder (caliper?) and see if that
> frees it up. If so, it is a hydraulic problem, if not it is something
> binding in the mechanical portion.
>
> Sure is thirsty in here.
>
> (-:

Hi Rob!
Thanks for reacting. What do you mean by "cracking up" the line to the cylinder?
It is a cylinder, because it's a hydraulic rear drumbrake.

Beer?

Greets,
Peter

>Roger Elmore <relmore@privacy.net> wrote in message
> How tightly do you have the plunger pin (attached to the foot pedal)
> adjusted into the master cylinder?  The pedal should have 1.5" (38mm)
> of travel *before* the pin makes any contact.  That's in the book
> though.

Hi Roger,

yes, that's in the book, and it's about that distance. I take it that
this 1.5" of travel is there so that the plunger in the Master brake
cylinder can move freely due to thje expantion of the brake fluid when
it get warmmer?
The pedal has some play on it's axle tho, so it's a little wobbly.
I will check the plunger pin adjustment.

Thank you!

Peter

> randy <rsah106@verizon.net> wrote...
> There should be some play between the brake pedal plunger and the master
> cylinder piston.  If not the vibration from the engine can cause the
> brake to be applied.  Make sure the spring that holds the pedal back is
> doing it's job.

Hi Randy!

Thank you, i will check the spring (which is not new..) and the
plunger adjustment. These are the tips i'm looking for!  :-)

Peter

PeetZ wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> last year i bought a 1971 FLH. A great bike with nice modern features
> like a primairy belt, dual-plug heads and an electronic ignition. All
> is well except for the rear brake. It keeps locking itself up, braking
> real hard. I've replaced the brakelinings,all the brakelines are
> replaced with stainless braided lines and i replaced the rear
> brakecylinder and the master brakecylinder, all OEM. I had to, because
> all these parts where worn due to normal use and that caused the
> brakes to lock up as well. So, everything is new but my brakes are
> still locking by themselfs.
> Am i using to much brakefluid? I'm using DOT 3. The master
> brakecylinder is pretty close to the non-stock exhaust. Could heat
> from the exhaustpipe heat up the brakefluid so much that it would
> expand so much that it could start locking up the rear brake? The
> lower part of the brakepedal, where the plunger for the mastercylinder
> is located, is just 1/4" away from the exhaustpipe.

There should be some play between the brake pedal plunger and the master
cylinder piston.  If not the vibration from the engine can cause the
brake to be applied.  Make sure the spring that holds the pedal back is
doing it's job.

--
randy BS6, AH#106

"PeetZ" <info@bigvtwins-zwolle.com> wrote in message
news:32bf630.0404121444.2d369424@posting.google.com...
<snip>
 The
> lower part of the brakepedal, where the plunger for the mastercylinder
> is located, is just 1/4" away from the exhaustpipe.
>
If the aforementioned excellent adjustment advice doesn't fix yer wagon, I'd
try making a little heat shield for that spot. I've had brake probs from
excessive heat before. Having enough dead air space in the master cyl. is
important too. (Room for expansion) Don't overfill that sucker.

Nice bike, I've always been partial to the yeller ones.

Shag
Pull the plug to reply

PeetZ wrote:
>> When it locks up, crack the line to the cylinder (caliper?) and see
>> if that frees it up. If so, it is a hydraulic problem, if not it is
>> something binding in the mechanical portion.
>>
>> Sure is thirsty in here.
>>
>> (-:
>
> Hi Rob!
> Thanks for reacting. What do you mean by "cracking up" the line to
> the cylinder? It is a cylinder, because it's a hydraulic rear
> drumbrake.
>
> Beer?
>
> Greets,
> Peter

Thanks.

Open the bleeder or loosen the brake line, if there is pressure in the
line/cylinder it will escape and let the brake release. Be sure to check the
pedal spring and free travel too, as the other guys have mentioned.

>PeetZ" <info@bigvtwins-zwolle.com> wrote in message
news:32bf630.0404130010.2043e40f@posting.google.com...
<snip>
> Hi Rob!
> Thanks for reacting. What do you mean by "cracking up" the line to the
cylinder?
> It is a cylinder, because it's a hydraulic rear drumbrake.

I believe he's telling you to open the bleeder when the brakes are "locked
up". If relieving pressure lets the brake loose, you've isolated it to the
hydraulic end of things and eliminated a mechanical fault.

Shag
Pull the plug to reply

info@bigvtwins-zwolle.com (PeetZ) wrote in message news:<32bf630.0404130022.7b919ec9@posting.google.com>...
> > randy <rsah106@verizon.net> wrote...
> > There should be some play between the brake pedal plunger and the master
> > cylinder piston.  If not the vibration from the engine can cause the
> > brake to be applied.  Make sure the spring that holds the pedal back is
> > doing it's job.
>
> Hi Randy!
>
> Thank you, i will check the spring (which is not new..) and the
> plunger adjustment. These are the tips i'm looking for!  :-)
>
> Peter


Make damned sure that the master cylinder piston is fully extended in
the bore before adjusting the pedal.  If it's not then fluid cannot
return to the master reservoir.  It gets trapped in the line and when
heat is applied (pipes, brake drum, etc.) the fluid expands and pushes
the shoes against the drum.

Hoppy
BS7  AH85  SENS

> If the aforementioned excellent adjustment advice doesn't fix yer wagon, I'd
> try making a little heat shield for that spot. I've had brake probs from
> excessive heat before. Having enough dead air space in the master cyl. is
> important too. (Room for expansion) Don't overfill that sucker.
>
> Nice bike, I've always been partial to the yeller ones.
>
> Shag
> Pull the plug to reply

I've cracked the line everytime the brake locked up, and the brake
released after that.
Yesterday evening i have bled the system once again and it was all
air. I don't get it, but never mind. I've put in approx. 75% of the
fluid that should normally go in. After that i adjusted the pedal. The
return spring is thighter than it was before. The pedal is nice and
hard now, and still braking. Had a short testdrive yesterday and it
seemed good. Today i didn't dare take it to work, afraid that the 20
mile ride would lock up my brakes again. I'll be testing tonight!
Thanks!

Peter

My refrigerator is open to all..
:-)

On 14 Apr 2004 04:27:20 -0700, info@bigvtwins-zwolle.com (PeetZ)
wrote:

>> If the aforementioned excellent adjustment advice doesn't fix yer wagon, I'd
>> try making a little heat shield for that spot. I've had brake probs from
>> excessive heat before. Having enough dead air space in the master cyl. is
>> important too. (Room for expansion) Don't overfill that sucker.
>>
>> Nice bike, I've always been partial to the yeller ones.
>>
>> Shag
>> Pull the plug to reply
>
>I've cracked the line everytime the brake locked up, and the brake
>released after that.
>Yesterday evening i have bled the system once again and it was all
>air. I don't get it, but never mind. I've put in approx. 75% of the
>fluid that should normally go in. After that i adjusted the pedal. The
>return spring is thighter than it was before. The pedal is nice and
>hard now, and still braking. Had a short testdrive yesterday and it
>seemed good. Today i didn't dare take it to work, afraid that the 20
>mile ride would lock up my brakes again. I'll be testing tonight!
>Thanks!


this is a rear drum brake correct? cause if it;s been changed over to
rear disc, you may need to remove the little puck inside the m/c, now
I wonder if it is drum if the little puck inside the M/C is there
since you replaced the M/C? maybe they gave you one set up for disc
brakes
 I don;t have a blow up of the m/c handy or I would show you what I am
talking about, all my books are still packed..someplace?

I had this problem on a 66 once we found the M/C to be the problem but
that was some time ago, we also had a MC getting hot from being to
close the exhaust on a '73 someone had changed he bike over with
custom controls, the mc was about 1/4 inch from the pipe
basically the master cyl for the drum and disc brake looks identical
but one gets a little puck the other doesn't take your m/c back apart
and check it out it.

there are only a couple reasons for this happening, heat is the cause
of your brake locking ,

you either have a brake line that will not let the fluid go back to
the MC causing it to overheat and boil the brake fluid,

your exhaust is overheating the brake fluid

or your m/c is not letting the brake fluid back to the reservoir due
to not being properly assembled






>
>Peter
>
>My refrigerator is open to all..
>:-)

#103, SENS, BS#80, FHBE #8, FLF, NS #10, '58 FLH, '89 KLR 50 '02 K1200LTC, BMWMOA #107452

Diane Johnston <harleywoman883@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Where in the Netherlands? Agua and I went to the Valkenburg caves
> for the Christmas market last December. Not very far from us in the
> Bitburg area. The caves were interesting, and the town was neat.
> We'll definitely go  back there for a day trip this summer..

Hi Diane,

i live in Zwolle, a town in the north-east of Holland, some 100 km's
from Amsterdam. Not to far from the German border.
Are you going to the SR in Sweden?

Greets!
Peter

>>I'll be testing tonight!

I did, and it's still locking up. Had to let out some fluid twice. I
know now that it's from using the brake and not from heat from the
exhaust. The free play between the plunger and the piston in the
master brakecylinder is gone after a short while. It can't get any
further back, because the back of the plunger is against the
exhaustpipe. The plunger is the non-adjustable type.

it was ok once. After i had bled the system the old fashion way;
without a pump. I think i'll try that again.

Greets
Peter

On 12 Apr 2004 15:44:41 -0700, info@bigvtwins-zwolle.com (PeetZ)
wrote:

>Hello all,
>
>last year i bought a 1971 FLH. A great bike with nice modern features
>like a primairy belt, dual-plug heads and an electronic ignition.

<snip bike tech stuff>

>For reference:
>http://www.bigvtwins-zwolle.com/zo_geel_als_boter.jpg
>Great color huh?  :-)

Nice bike.

>Thanks!
>Peter
>Zwolle, The Netherlands

Where in the Netherlands? Agua and I went to the Valkenburg caves
for the Christmas market last December. Not very far from us in the
Bitburg area. The caves were interesting, and the town was neat.
We'll definitely go  back there for a day trip this summer..

--
Diane, western Germany
BS#142, MANS, SENS
'93 XLH 883
EKIII rides with me - http://eddiekieger.com

On 14 Apr 2004 14:14:02 -0700, info@bigvtwins-zwolle.com (PeetZ)
wrote:

>>>I'll be testing tonight!
>
>I did, and it's still locking up. Had to let out some fluid twice. I
>know now that it's from using the brake and not from heat from the
>exhaust. The free play between the plunger and the piston in the
>master brakecylinder is gone after a short while. It can't get any
>further back, because the back of the plunger is against the
>exhaustpipe. The plunger is the non-adjustable type.
>

what?


the back of the plunger is against the exhaust pipe?

then you need to get some clearance in There because that is causing
our master cyl to appy the brake ever so slightly

got a phone?

you can e-mail me direct at t@bikershut.com


#103, SENS, BS#80, FHBE #8, FLF, NS #10, '58 FLH, '89 KLR 50 '02 K1200LTC, BMWMOA #107452

On 14 Apr 2004 14:14:02 -0700, info@bigvtwins-zwolle.com (PeetZ)
wrote:

>>>I'll be testing tonight!
>
>I did, and it's still locking up. Had to let out some fluid twice. I
>know now that it's from using the brake and not from heat from the
>exhaust. The free play between the plunger and the piston in the
>master brakecylinder is gone after a short while. It can't get any
>further back, because the back of the plunger is against the
>exhaustpipe. The plunger is the non-adjustable type.
>
>it was ok once. After i had bled the system the old fashion way;
>without a pump. I think i'll try that again.
>

ok I just realized you are not in the U.S

still ping me e-mail

Tom
t@bikershut.com

>Greets
>Peter

#103, SENS, BS#80, FHBE #8, FLF, NS #10, '58 FLH, '89 KLR 50 '02 K1200LTC, BMWMOA #107452

Harold Gailey" <hgailey@houston.rr.com> wrote

> I think that's the town my wife's grandparents lived in. They're dead now.
> The Leenheer's. Just knew them as Oma and Opa. Father in law's name is Kees.
> Short for Kornelius I think.

Hi Harold,

could well be :-)
Kor would be short for Kornelius, Kees is just Kees (pronounced as (if
it interests you..) as Case)
Beer?  :-)

Greets,
Peter

"PeetZ" <info@bigvtwins-zwolle.com> wrote in message
news:32bf630.0404141248.2e2b258a@posting.google.com...
>
> i live in Zwolle, a town in the north-east of Holland, some 100 km's
> from Amsterdam. Not to far from the German border.
> Are you going to the SR in Sweden?
>
> Greets!
> Peter

I think that's the town my wife's grandparents lived in. They're dead now.
The Leenheer's. Just knew them as Oma and Opa. Father in law's name is Kees.
Short for Kornelius I think.

--
Harold
74 CB450 stolen, 74 Z1 traded, 76 FX stolen, 78 FX(E), 02 FXDX
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/hgailey55/instant/photos.html

On 14 Apr 2004 13:48:45 -0700, info@bigvtwins-zwolle.com (PeetZ)
wrote:

>Diane Johnston <harleywoman883@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> Where in the Netherlands? Agua and I went to the Valkenburg caves
>> for the Christmas market last December. Not very far from us in the
>> Bitburg area. The caves were interesting, and the town was neat.
>> We'll definitely go  back there for a day trip this summer..
>
>Hi Diane,
>
>i live in Zwolle, a town in the north-east of Holland, some 100 km's
>from Amsterdam. Not to far from the German border.
>Are you going to the SR in Sweden?

No, not this year. We do have a bunch of other trips planned, and
we're anxious to get the new bagger next week, so we can get
started...

Have a great summer -
--
Diane
BS#142, MANS, SENS
'93 XLH 883
EKIII rides with me - http://eddiekieger.com